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Caraient Cutting 



OOLI'lTLE 




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Class _!'_ ' V ^7 ^^ 

Book ^ GJi^ . 

Copyright N" , 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSrr. 



Straight Shoulder Rules. 
Systems and Methods 



OF THE 



Present Day 



BY 

OLIVER T. DOOLITTLE 



WoMENs Garment Cutting 



i-i-:f 



PHILADELPHIA 
OLIVER T. DOOLITTLE. Pubiisher 

I go 1 



THE LIBRARY OF 

CONGRESS. 
Two COPIF.S RtCEiVEO 

MAR 27 1901 

Copyright entry 

6lASS<^XX<;. N». 

COPY B. 



Copyrighted, 1901, 



OLIVER T. DOOLITTLE 



PRESS O.P SHERMAX & CO. 






f 



PREFACE 



IN the introduction of tliis work on women's garment culling;, it will he loniul i.-ntin-l)' n<'W in 
the production of all the separali- methods contained herein. The author ha\ in- had many 
)ears' practical expericnct- in the cutting of men's, women's and Ijoys' :_;armenls, is enahh d 
to demonstrate the value of the contents of this hook. I h' has made all l)ranches as |ilain and 
simple as possihle, and as hest adapted to their practical workin^^-. The distinction hetween rules 
and systems herein iricntioned is loi' the |)urpose ol desii^iiatiui; the rules to Ix- workecl se[)a- 
rately and also with a system. In all the ahove work is L;iven a proportionate nde, and that as 
a foundation is hased on the principU- that has prool ol correctness in the ])roof ol the workings. 
It will prove within itself all points that i^overn as heiuL; equal to an eslal)llshed lenter, and that 
is established hy proof of th<- location, making; it a sell-pro\in^ rule as a correct toundation oi- 
base to work upon, and by it chan!:;<; any [iroblems that may arise. 

This work is not only of t^ri'at value to the' inexperienced in starting, hut as well to one 
of (experience, as all points a!_;reeim^ with his ex])erience ,L;i\'e |)rool ol correctness. Any other 
rule i)oint can he applied to an\' of tiie rules or systems in this work, ami it L;"ood it will ju-oxe 
them to b(; correct, and if had ^o ])rove them, Thc-re is some ^'ood iii all, and it is Irom the 
many rules and the practical tests as to their value that this work is evolved. 

in kee])int,;; witli the aix)ve rules of ])roportion is tlie oni! of measure tlraltint;, as it better 
enables one l)y the working of lli(r two in <ine to exercise '^ood judgment in deternn'nin^ any 
proljlem that may arise and L;i\e more assurance in the prodiiciuL; ol a drall. in the lorm ol the 
long neck the proijorlion will be found especially ol value in determining by proportion the 
effective location of points as to harmonizing together, as all two points as one, must do so lor 
good results. W hiie trying-on many times is not as objectionable to the women as to the men 
(they having more patience on the average), it is as well not to sidiject them to the annoyance 
if it can be avoided, and it can i)e liy a closet ap|(lication ol the two rules above nn^ntioned and 
the workings of the two with the pattern system, and by the use of all three, as in one there can 
be much time as well as expense saved, axoiding many try-ons b_\- lirst doing what is olten ri'- 
(juired afterwards. 

The |)att(-rn system of changes with the other two is as well to better illustrate in all the 
l:)ranches of the tliflert-nt lorins, giving practical demonstration in prool. 

P'or skirt, easy walking skirt, shown in Diagrams. 'Ihis not only gives more Ireedom in 
walking, but if [)roperly I)alanced on the hip, the <.;\tra amount ol tlrapery added to front will 
fall straight tlown in front, and gi\e a more gracekil appearance; to the lorm. Tlic' gorge 
taken out for hip shape has unich to do with the varied forms, and no skirt can drop well with 
graceful ease if hip-boimd — shown in I )iagrams. The extra amount gi\en the short walking 
skirt will as well give more ease to a long skirt at back when held u]) hack length. The index 
will guide to all separate illustrations of changes for garnn-nts as Lliffering in form from that of 
normal. 

This work is what is claimed as to the ])resent : it may he advanced in future years, hut 
surely it is better to start with now than with that of the jiast to reach it. It shoidd re(|uire no 
more to convince than to obsctrve the- advancement in all other liranches of industr\-, and 
compare all of to-day's with those established )'ears ago. There is no other industry using 
that of the past as much as will be found in the tailoring business in all its branches, all others 
always seeking the hest and latest in all its workings. Any and ail who will use this book will 
find it of great value in the men's branch of coat cutting, and leel fully compensated for the 
price of the work by the many valuable points found within its pages, and those points were 
obtained hy the practical exj^erience of the author. 



CONTENTS. 



I'ouiulation (Bodice and Jacket Rule Proportion), . . . . -9 

Sleeves (Rule l^ro])ortion), ........ 12 

Skirt (Rule Proportion). . . . . . . • • • '4 

Measure Diagram (To Tak<- for Podice. Jack(;t and OverL^arnient), . . . i6 

Measure Rule (To Apply tor liody ISodiic, Jacket and Overj^arnient), . . .18 

Skirt (Measures to Take), ........ 20 

Skirt — Rult- Measurement (To .Apply), . . . . • • .22 

Cape and Circular, ......... 24 

Cape or Circular (With Sleeve), . . . . . . . -24 

Trousers, ........... 26 

SvsTKM 111- P.\iri;kN Ciiani.ino. 

Body Bodice and Jacket (X'aried Collars), . . . . . . -30 

Jacket, Double Breasted (Straight P'ront). ...... 32 

Jacket, Double-Breasted (Cutaway P'ront), . . . . . . -32 

Jacket (3-Part .Separation — Whole or Seam Back), ..... 34 

\'est (Double- and .SinL,de-Breasted — X'aried Collars), . . . . -36 

Box Coat (With Collar), ......... 38 

Stout Form (Bodice, Jacket and .Skirt), . . . . . . .40 

Back and .Sleeve ('Po Lengthen or .Shorten), ...... 42 

Wide Hip and Drai>ery (.Skirt), . . . . . . . -44 

LTlster (From Jacket, all Collars), . ....... 46 

Raglan (From Jacket, or Rule), . . . . . . . -47 

Remarks and Suggestions, . . . . . . . -53 



(5) 



FOUNDATION RULES 



^^' ^^^ 9^^ t^^ 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



BODY BODICE AND JACKET RULE— FOUNDATION. 

FIRST draw line A [)crj)(iulicular for the back construction lint-. Then at right angle square 
and line out from line A line B. Go out from line A on line B one-eighth to point C. 
Go down from line B on line A one-thirty-second to point D ; then shape for top ot back, 
from D to C. bVom D go down a one-fourth less one-half inch to line E. From D go down on 
line A a one-half less one inch to breast line F. From line F go down on line A a one-half 
less one inch to waist line G ; then go down the distance required by style to line H. Square 
and line out from line A ; line E the distance of one-half the back width and lines F, Ci and 1 1 
the full distance required for draft. Go out from line A on breast line F one-third and one- 
thirty-second to I. From I square up line J to and above line E one-eighth to K. Then draw 
line for top of back shoulder from C to K. (io up from I on line J one-twelfth to L. I'Vom L 
go forwartl from line J one-twenty-fourth to 1\1. Then from line A go forward on breast line F 
two-thirds to N. From \ forward one-twenty-fourth to ( ). From O square up line P from 
breast line F one-sixth to U (this line for front of arm scye). (io u\> irom O on line V one- 
sixteenth (this for front notch of scye for the sleeve). The center lin(? S is established by a half 
distance from I to N. (The half is point R.) Then from line B scpiare down a line to R anil to 
waist line (i. From N go out on breast line F one-half to point T. Then froni line B square 
dovv-n line U (the front line of draft) to T, extending to full distance of draft to line H. tio down 
from line B on line U to V one-sixth. From \' come back one and one-(|uarter inches to W and 
draw line from V' to W . Tlu-n scpiare down "l)y'' the line 1! only from W . Line X to waist 
line G. (This line X will establish the front edge of body bodice for a dress. Line U the front 
edge for top or overgarment, antl in this garment use lin(! X as the button line, ami from it make 
the advance of any requirement of distance or effects.) 

Then go out from line A on line !> two-thirds. From two-thirds one-sixth, from one-sixth 
one-sixteenth to Y (point Y the most essential in garment cutting). From Y scpiare tlown line 
Z a distance of three or four inches. Then from VV draw line AO to center line S at line B. 
To form neck gorge sha[)e, go from Y to line AO one-sixth ; take the half of one-sixth, a one- 
twelfth, and from the one-twelfth line to the fork of lines AO and Z. bVom the fork on that 
line go up <>ne-twenty-fourth. Then shape from Y to one-twenty-fburth, to one-sixth, to W . I'or 
toj) front shoulder, draw a line from Y to line E at line .*\. For separation of parts for seams, 
go forward from line A on waist line (_i three-fourths inch; from that three-fourths inch draw 
line AA to D. From line AA go forward on line G as follows: brom line AA one-eighth less 
one-fourth inch to P>( ) ; from BO tmc inch to CO; from CO one-eighth to DO; from DO one 
inch to E( ) ; from E( ) one-sixth to FO ; from I'"(^ one ami one-cjuarter inches to ( iO ; from (iO 
one-sixth to HO ; from HO one and one-ipiarter inches to IO ; from IO one-twelfth to JO ; from 
JO one and one-cjuarter inches to KO ; from K( ) one twelfth to line X ; from line X go forward 
on line F one-half inch. Draw line from \V to one-half inch, to waist line (i at line X. From 
line U go forward on line F one-half inch. Draw line from V to the one-half inch to waist line 
G. Go forward from line LI on line H one inch. .Shape lines V or W that the draft calls for 
from waist line Ci to the one inch out. For a Dress Waist Bodice : Go down waist line G on line 
X one-sixth antl from the one-sixth forward one inch, or as to the form. (The insitle shape line 
from W to the one-sixth down from line G is the Dress Waist Bodice line, and the outer shape 
line from V to G to H is the ( )vergarment line.) For the locating of points for line and shape 
separation, first draw a line from R at line S to line E at line A. F"rom R on this line go a one- 
fourth to LO. From R on breast line F go a one-fourth and one-twenty-fourth to MO. Draw 
line from MO to B(J at line G ; then go up on line J from I one-sixth and one-thirty-second to 
NO, on the top line of back formed from C to K. Take for the width that distance of style 
reciuired. Take the same amount for width of front shoulder as the back. From line J on 



lo DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 

line E go forward onc-thirty-second to 0(^. Then shape tlie back from K to line E at hne J 
and to L( ), to MC ), curving- to BO at waist hne G. Draw Hne from MO to CO. Then, to form 
the side form, go from OO to NO, to LO, to MO, curving to CO at waist Hne G. To form under 
arm side part, go out on Hne F from Hne I one-sixteenth, from the one-sixteenth Hne to DO and 
EO. Shape the hnes from the one-sixteenth on line F to DO and EO. Go forward from 
center line S on line F one-twelfth. From the one-twelfth line to F( ) and G: shape from the 
one-twelfth to FO and GO. Then extend down line from Y, extending below line F one-sixth 
and one-twenty fourth. From the one-sixth and one-twenty-fourth distance draw line at right 
angle each way; to PO and OO one-twelfth each. To take out for two darts in a Draft, Line 
from PO and OO to HO to lO to JO, to KO. To shape arm scye (the back already shaped 
above to line E) : Go from 0( ) to M, to R, to N, to front notch, to O, to width of front shoulder 
at end point. To shape waist line : Go up on center line .S from waist line G one-thirty-second. 
From that line to line AA at back on line G, and from center Hne -S to tlie one-sixth down on line 
X. This line forms the waist for Bodice Draft, or for Skirt. Take the center of distances 
between BO and C( ), l)( ) and P^O, p'O and GO, and from line G stjuare line down for each 
center one-twelfth ; then from waist line G shape from the above oijenings to the one-twelfth, 
on the Hnes of center formed, and continue angle of shape to any distance. A short jacket or 
a long ulster, crossing all lines at the one-twelfth down from line G: To sweep for full-length 
distance, sweep from marks * * to those of the same. Starting at C on line P) and at full 
distance len-'th at back * * eoint;- forward to *, makiuL;- all of same ilistance from waist line G 
as the first starting length at back to the front * * * *. Then shape darts from waist line G 
to full lengtii of skirt. If only one dart is required, take the amount of the two for it. If a full 
front garment, omit the darts. 

For the jacket : Go down on line U one-fourth from the one-sixth of bodice, and sweep 
from * * * * to the one-fourth on line U. All mentions of whatsoever division in this or any 
part of this work are those of the Breast Measurement, and are to be so implied without furtlier 
mention. 



DOOLITTI.KS STRAIGHT SIIOULDI'.R RULl'-S, SVSTl'.MS AND Ml'.TIloDS 






% 


2 


3 


1 
4 




f. 


1 Ml' 


Scale 










4 
1 1 


3 
1 1 


I 1 

1 ill l.l 1 



Foundation — Bodice and Jackkt Rule Pkoi'okiion. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



SLEEVE RULE— PROPORTION. 

FIRST fold the paper the width and length required for sleeve. Place the fold crease from 
you, using the crease for construction line A. From crease line A square line towards 
you tor top line B ; then from line A come back on line B one-third and one-eighth. From 
the one-eighth scjuare line C down to full length for sleeve. From line B go down on line C one- 
twelfth. From one-twelfth down one-fourth. From one-fourth down one-sixteenth. Then from 
one-twelfth on line C square line out the distance of one-twelfth. From the one-fourth on line 
C square to line A and mark only on line A for front notch for sleeve. From the one-sixteenth 
on line C square to line A and line back one-twelfth for under line sleeve depth. Then take 
half of sleeve width on line B, and from that half distance square down line D to under line 
sleeve depth ; then place the square as a triangle with point resting down on center line D ; the 
long arm to rest at and touch fork of lines B and C, ancl the short arm of square resting and 
toucliing the fork of lines A and B. Mark the lines on outer edge of square when in this posi- 
tion, and go in on those lines from fork A and B one-eighth, from fork B and C one-sixteenth. 
Then form top sleeve head from one-twelfth on line C, shaping to one-sixteenth on long arm 
line to one-third on line B, then to the half center line D, then to one-eighth in on short arm of 
square triangle line ; then to the front notch mark on line A. This forms the top part of sleeve 
or a half. To form the under part or half of sleeve take the measure of inseam length on line A 
from the bottom line of armpit to the distance required and place point of square at that dis- 
tance with front or outside edge of long arm of square, touching at center line D on line B, and 
when in that position and by the short arm of square line to distance required for size at wrist 
marking for it. This position of square will give the proper angle shape or slope of cuff at 
wrist. Then from that established width of cuff find the distance to the one-twelfth on line C 
and take the half of it to establish the elbow location. Then from that, line to the one-twelfth 
in from line C, and from elbow line to the width of cuff at full length, then shape as required 
by their lines from the one-twelfth in from line C, to elbow, to full distance, to cuff width. Then 
for shape of under part at the top, from the one-twelfth in from line C curve line to the one- 
twelfth in from line A and to front notch of sleeve. (This notch of one-sixteenth in sleeve is the 
same as the one-sixteenth in Bodice or Coat Draft, and that shape at bottom armpit requires to 
be observed in shaping the under part of sleeve in order to conform well to it.) For a whole 
sleeve draft to use with or without a division seam of top and under, cut out this draft on the 
line of top sleeve head, from one-twelfth on line C to the notch on forearm on line A ; then the 
back of top sleeve on line from one-twelfth on line C to elbow, to full distance to cuff. At full 
length cut bottom of cuff to line A. The draft is cut out so far while the paper is doubled. Cut 
the under part out on shape lines (single) from the one-twelfth in from back line C to elbow only, 
and from the same one-twelfth on curved line formed to notch in front forearm. Open out now 
the draft with under part from you and you have the whole or solid sleeve that can be separated 
or not and shaped to any opinion. If measure is taken on the out or back seam for length of 
sleeve, the elbow and full distance is established by it. Then the shape is formed by squaring 
line from full distance to line A, and from that line go up on line A one and one-fourth inch and 
shape line back from line A to the back seam of cuff. The best criticisms favor taking the in- 
seam measure as being more accurate. The two Diagrams of producing sleeve to any design 
show how to make the changes, as will be illustrated by others in the system of explanation. 
The illustration given with this is how to place the square in position as above mentioned. If to 
change sleeve head to locate back notch lower, go out from line A one-twelfth, and the .same 
amount lower the under part of sleeve, as is shown in Diagram i. 



DOOLITTLl 



--;S STRAIGHT SH( )U1.1 )1-.R RULKS, SYSTEMS AND METHODS .3 



Line B 




Sleeve — Rule Pkofoktion. 



14 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



SKIRT RULE— PKOPOUTION. 

IN tliis draft tlierc arc used two separate divisions of s<}uare to scale each, the waist and hip, 
the problem beini;- based on 24-inch waist and 44-incli hip. b'irst draw line A for front or 
fold of draft; square out line B at right angle from line A ; from line B go down on line A 
the distance required for amount of fullness to be used over the exact measure or half of the 
waist. In that measure allow for all seams of gores and shapings. For the fullness, go down 
on line A from line 1! to line C two inches for every three inches fullness required. (The three 
inches as drafted single will be six in garment as double ; as this draft, eighteen inches fullness, 
the half being nine, is six inches down from line B, or as to six inches down as to nine inches sin- 
gle, three single is to three times six, eighteen, amount as to the double.) Square oudine C and 
go out on it from A to M two-thirds and one-half (using waist division of square scale as to de- 
nomination.) From line C go down on line A (using, as above, scale of denomination), one- 
fourth and one-thirty-second to line D, antl scpiare outline I) for waist line. From line D (using 
now the hip measure divisions as to denomination and by it go down on line A) one-fourth to line 
E and square E line out for hip line. Go out on line E one-third, and from the one-third square 
up line F to waist line 1). Go out on hip line E from line F one-sixth, from the one-sixth square 
up line G to waist line 1) ; from line A go out on line E to H, the half of the full hip measure 
taken (all gores and seams required in this distance to be added to measure, extending H that 
amount). Take now the waist measure division and scale with it line F up from waist line D 
on line F one-twenty-fourth to K. From line D extend up on line G one-eighth to L. Shape 
curve line for top of waist, from line A on line 1 ) to K L M, then on the curve line. Go out 
from line A to I one-third, from I to J one-twelfth (for gorge), from J go one-fourth, from one- 
fourth go one-twelfth (for gorge); from the one-twelfth go one-third, from the one-third go one 
and one-five-eighths inches to M. .Should more or less be required for reasons of gores, separa- 
tion or the shape of form from line allowance over to go here, A to M, apply measure taken and 
extend M as required i-'or slope of skirt at back, draw line from M to H, extending line N by 
that angle to full length of skirt distance determined. Square out (using line N) from H line R 
to the distance of fullness to be used. To form the fullness, go out on line C two and one- 
t]uarter inches ; from the two and one-quarter inches go up two inches, from that two inches up, 
square line out two and one-quarter inches more, and continue this rule formation to whatever 
amount required. The two and one-quarter inches out and the two inches up will make the 
distance of three inches for each and every step formed, as well as form a good shape curve line 
from M by each rise of step. To form sweep, take and apply from waist line D to full distance, 
front, side and back measurements, and line by these. To establish the distance in this draft, go 
down on line A from line E one-half and three inches. 



DOOLITTLK'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULKS, S^■ST^:MS AND METHODS 



15 



44 ^1^ 
Scale of Hip 



"1 I'M 

8 .L 16 I 32 



inch*:) 

|5 |4 |3 |Z I 



24 ^/3 ^2 

5ca/e oA Waist 



8 lisHa 

nche. i^ 6 '2 ^^ 

|6 j5 ,♦, |3 |2 ,1 




6//1 ds ro 9 in Fullness 



Line A 



Skirt — Rulk PRoroRTmN, 



1 6 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



aiEASUKE DIAGRAM— HOW TO TAKE FOR BODICE, JACKET AND 

OVEKGAKMENT. 

THIS Diagram will illustrate the system of transformation from rule in principle as governing 
that of proportion, to the one of measurement as by measures taken to apply and the 

transforming by them into a systematic whole as the result either in drafting or in use of 
pattern. 

First, establish point N at front of arm scye, then from N take a line under the arm and 
over the blade to center of back, marking on the top of it on the blade at back of arm scye and 
at back center for scye depth, and for point to apply other measures. To take measure : First 
take from D top of back less the amount for band or collar stand, and that height, as well as 
the width of band or collar stand, must be governed by the form and style of dressing the neck 
and width ot band or collar told. This measure taken extends from D to line F (scye depth). 
Second, measure from D to natural waist line G. Third, from D to full distance of waist style. In 
a woman's garment the natural waist tor a body bodice cannot extend at the side seam below the 
hip-bone point, while for style, back and front, it can slope to a fashionable length ; and that 
is why the two measures are given and are as well required in an overgarment the same as 
in men's. Fourth: from I) to full distance of draft to line H. bifth : width of back from center 
to shoulder. Sixth, blade measure : from N under the arm to center of back. Seventh : Irom 
N the distance of sleeve forearm. Eighth : from N to hip bone or waist at side. Ninth: from 
N to line X. (Line X the body bodice, front edge, and button stand line for overgarment.) 
Tenth : from N to Y, and adding to it the distance of back neck width from line D to C for the 
full strap measure. Eleventh : the over-shoulder from N to depth of scye establish at center 
of back at line F. Twelfth : the over-end shoulder from N to mark on blade at back arm scye 
at line F. Thirteenth: the full breast. Fourteenth: the natural waist. Fifteenth: the hip at 
largest part. To apply measure : If taken over the dress bodice or any thin fabric like a shirt 
waist, allowance ot one seam for each and every one is necessary to add to measures taken. 
If over an outer garment or heavy goods, the extra amount of measure will allow you to use 
measures without seam allowances. For Top Coat, to go over the under coat or jacket : It 
measures used are taken over the dress bodice, one-half inch and seams should be added to 
depth of scye, to front and back shoulder, to blade, to breast, and to front point of shoulder at Y. 
In the use of pattern, tor measure over the bodice in proportion, take the denomination size of 
one size larger; for an under coat or jacket, for the top or overcoat, take two sizes larger, and 
in applying measures to them the amount taken. For any changes that form or effect may 
require, observe those that have previously been given and those which will be hereafter sys- 
tematized in Diagram or explanation. 

The full distance or style measure can be omitted in all loose, straight effects, as it is only 
required in close or tight-fitting forms and when a waist is demonstrated. This illustration and 
the one of how to apply and draft by measure will sufifice for all in their different methods of 
reaching the one result either by proportion, measure, or the system of using all with the use 
of one's own or other patterns. In a body bodice or tight-fitting garment it will be best 
to iJ-Q out from line X five-eiehths inch for button stand and use line X as button line tor 
buttons. 



DOO LITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULi:S, SVSTl'.MS AND Ml-.THODS 17 




Measure IJiacka.m — ILnv ro Take thk I'xmici-., jacket and ( )\-i:kGAKMi'.Nr. 



1 8 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



MEASURE KULE TO APPLY FOK BODA BODICE, JACKET AND 

OAEKUAKMENT. 

TO Draft by Measure: The same rule formation as Proportionate Foundation Draft A will 
govern with the tollowing changes: The depth of scye measure with a seam added from 
D on line A will establish line F. The half distance of a one-fourth up from line F will 
establish line H. The distance from D to natural waist will establish line G. (The remarks in 
measure taking will apply for all not mentioned herein, as most of the applying of measures 
are only just the reverse irom those as taken.) To establish width ot back (the fifth) go out on 
line 1*" to I the distance of measure taken, adding to it all seams to be used. To form back part 
of scye, use all governings on line J, as in Proportion Draft A (Foundation). Draft now the 
back, as Proportion Draft A. To establish front sc)e, go out from line A on line F to N the 
distance of blade measure taken (the sixth), with all seams to be used added. Extend from N 
to O one-twenty-fourth, then draft line W as Proportion Draft. Establish center line S at R 
by the half distance from I to N, and draw line as in Proportion Draft A. To establish front of 
draft, go out from line A on line F, the distance of one-half the full breast measure (the thir- 
teenth) taken, and from that one-half distance extend out to T on line V two and one-half inches, 
and from button-stand line, as in Proportion Draft, to whatever is retpiired for separate style of 
drafts. The front shoulder-point Y is located the same as in Proportion Draft A, by the back 
at lines A and B. Draw line at Y above and below line B, as this line is to be used up or down 
to locate the required strap measure distance (the tenth) as taken, and the depth of neck gorge 
one-sixth down will be governed up or down by and from the point this measure establishes. 
Fo find that ])oint, take the distance of top of back from line A to D, place the amount of dis- 
tance at N, with it extending to Y of a distance of the strap measure taken ; then from the point 
of that distance, either down or up, draw a line forward to front line of draft U, that will form 
a new line B from Y to line U only. For all guides in separation, shaping or curving, use the 
same as in Proportion Draft A, only, as measures dictate differently, as in waist, hip, length, 
etc., any known measure can be addeil and applied to this or any branch of this system. Before 
applying shoulder measure it is well as a guide to draw line for top front shoulder from Y as 
located by straj) measure to line ¥. at line A, as it will assist in governing judgment better than 
measure taken to produce a good line for shoulder shape. The front shoulder width in measure 
draft is governed by the back. In locating point Y, it is located by and from any change of line 
A, either forward or back. The other measures taken are to be applied on this in the same form 
as taken. The ninth measure is well to use as in proof with the thirteenth, and if not agreeing, 
it may be the fault of either one being wrong-, or that of the blade (No. 6) is wrong. 



20 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



SKIKT DIAUKAM— TO TAKE MEASURES. 

TO take- the measure for the skirt: I'irst, No. i, the waist; second, No. 2, the largest of hip ; 
third, No. 3, the full distance of front length on line A ; fourth. No. 4, the full distance of 
side on center line from hip at waist a full length on the side ; fifth, No. 5, the full 
length recpiired as to any shape in skirt length on line N. It is well to note the iorm in front 
at line A, at hip center and at M at the back; all the effect of a skirt is either made or lost by 
the hip hanging, and great care must be observed in the shaping of it, as no good result can be 
produced below the hip line with a defective formation from the waist to the hip. 

The illustrative diagrams of different skirt changes for the tliffering of forms as here- 
after given in this book will illustrate for all form producing. 



DOOI.ITTLE'S STRAIGHT SI lOLLDI'.R Rl'LES, S^•STl•:^rS WD MKTIIODS 




Skiki' — Mkasuke to Take. 



DOOLITTIJ'.'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



SKIKT lUTLE— MEASUKE3IEXT TO APPLY. 

IN giving this rule in detail, while not necessary for reasons of explanation of measurement 
in the one of proportion, the different form of working out this problem will prove one with 
the tither as in jjrool of correctness in reaching the same result, as it will allow a choice in 
working either with more assurance. 

Prom construction lines A and B yo tlown on line A to line D three-fourths, usine waist 
measure divisions as taken to waist line D only. From line A square out line D ; go up from 
line D one-fourth and one-thirty-second for line C. S(|uare out line C and go out on it two- 
thirds and one half to M. From line Ago out on line D two-thirds to O, scpiare up a line from 
O one-twelfth to 1* and shape top waist curve line O ; from line A on line D to P to M. By 
applying waist measure on line O from line A will be found that the remaining distance to M 
(as in proportion) to be three and one-c[uarter inches allowed for two gorges of one-twelfth each 
and one and one-quarter inch tor a three-gored skirt. To whatever draft requires more or less 
as to number of seams, gorges, antl measurement taken call for, establish M as to the require- 
ment ; use now the hip measure divisions ; go down on line A from line I) to line E one-quarter 
and square line E to H the distance of half the full hip measure taken, adding for all seams for 
gores or any shaping of separations coming in this distance ; extend H their amount. In this 
draft use onl\' what divisions are required with measures : the waist measure division only as 
above mentioned ; hip measure and skirt length are taken and applied as in proportion rule. 
The same rule for fullness governs in this one. In applying the hip measure it is applied from 
line A on line E to H, and on line R as retpiired. For a close or tight-fitting skirt would recom- 
mend applying it at a distance of one-sixth up on line N from H. 

Having now the blank draft for skirt, any effects of whatever style required for sepa- 
ration can be used. To establish knee distance other than measure, use one as given in propor- 
tion. To establish a center as guide in sweep, shape at bottom and as a balance of bottom with 
that of waist. Take the half-distance on line E from A to H, and from the two-thirds out from 
A on line C draw line to the half on line E, extending to full distance by that angle, then by that 
center line and from the half of hip square out by it to line N. This, it used, will be found to be 
the same as the above mentioned one-sixth u[) on line L from H. If this line is used, front, side 
and back measurements can be applied to it for bottom shape, and especially good in short skirt 
effects as well as in block pattern drafting. 



DOOLITTLFAS STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES. SVSTl-.MS AND METHODS 




Line A. 



Skikt Rule — Measurement to Appl\'. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULFIS, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



CAPE AND CIRCULAK RULE. 

CONSTRUCT line A and scjuarc out line B by and from it. Go down from line B on line 
A one-fourth to line C ; i;() down on line A from line C to line E one-fourth ; from line E 
qo down to shoulder line 1^" one-fourth. Go out from line A on line C one-eighth and 
one-half inch, and from that go u|) one twenty-fourth to D, then square out line C E F the full 
distance of long arm of square. Go out from line A on should(;r line E one-half; from the 
one-half square up line G to H at line I> : go up on line G from line E one-eighth to I, from I 
draw line } to D ; go from I one-twelfth to J ; from the one-twelfth go up one-thirty-second 
from line [, then shape from D to the one-thirty-second and to I. Go up on line G from I one- 
twelfth ; from one-twelfth come back one-thirty-second, then shape from 1 to the one-thirty-second 
and to H at line B. This forms back and front shoulder line as going together. Go out from 
line A on line F two-thirds, from the two-thirds go out one-twenty-fourth to K, then place long 
arm of square with the front edge at K and I and draw line L from line B by them the dis- 
tance required from I for depth of cape from the shoulder, then place square on line L with 
jioint of short arm at line E, and go forward one-half for line M ; extend three inches; from 
the one-half to N and one and one-cpiarter inches; from N to O ; then go out from line A on 
line B two-thirds to V ; from V one-si.\th ; from one-sixth to AO one-twenty-fourth ; from P go 
down one-sixteenth. Then shai)e from H to one-sixteenth down from I' and to AO ; from AO 
draw line BO to N and extend a ilistancc required for button line. From and by this line BO 
square up from AO one and one-cjuarter inches to Z, then from Z draw line X to O, and to 
full distance of front edge of cape draft. To form bottom shape, sweep from H on line B by 
taking the distance from H to full depth of draft distance in back and sweep from that forward 
to line X at front edge of draft. .After taking this sweep add to the distance of back one-sixth 
and from that one-sixth shape to line L. To take and apply measures: The shoulder measure 
is taken to and applied on line E. T"o take measure, take it around the body at a straight line 
around the breast and back over the arm below end of shoulder-bone at fullest place on arm. 
This will give the required ilenomination number of square division to be used. If taken over 
bodice or shirt-waist, use one or two sizes larger; if over tlut coat or jacket, use as to the 
measure. To apply measure as in jjroof : Go from line A on line I{ to line L, and Irom L on 
line M to a distance of one-half the full shoulder measure taken, and from that one-half the 
amount extend three inches to N and from N add amount of button stand, if any is required. 
It is well (as in proof) to form sweej* ff)r bottom length of draft to take the back distance from 
top of neck to full distance ; then from I (width of shoulder) on line L on ecpial ot back to tull 
distance from shoulder, then the front from AO on line BO to full distance. Having these three 
points will assist with tlie above sweep, as some shoulders will take up more than others, and 
this form of measure will regulate it. This draft can be used for ladies' shoulder-capes of any 
depth recpiired, from a short shoulder-cape to a full length tor circular. 

To draft an arm scye to use a sleeve for cape or circular, make the following changes as 
to diagram thus : Go out from line A on line F one- third and one-twelfth to lO ; from lO square 
up a line one-twelfth to LO, from LO go forward one-twenty-fourth to MO; from lO go forward 
on line F one-eighth to R at line S. From line A go out on line 1'" two-thirds to NO ; trom NO 
one-twenty-fourth to OO, from OO square and line up for front of scye line PO. P^'om OO go 
up on line PO one-sixteentli for front notch of sleeve, from OO on line PO go up one-sixth to 
O, then shape from the one-thirty-second back and front shoulders for the arm scye, starting at 
the point of one-thirty-second on the back shoulder line to MO, to R, to NO, to front notch, to 
O, to one-diirty-second on front shoukk-r. The back notch of scye is governed as to the style 
of sleeve drafts given in bodice and jacket rule. If more drapery or spring is required in extend- 
ing length of cape for circular, come back from line A and also extend out from lines BO and 
X in front. If for a close fitting, or cape not to button, only line BO will be used. 



DOOLITTLK'S STRAIGHT SHUULUl'.R RULKS, SYSTEMS AND MKTHOUS 



25 



Cape dna C/rcular 
Cape or Circular 
To use lA/ilh Sleeve 



o * 



^ Line PO 



1 


^-^ +■ 


— '^*^ 'T--.^^ — 




I 


^"■^ 


-r'/ie V^ 


. 


I 


.^^oi- 


---^ 


N. 




^ 


lz/>7e5^ 


\^ 




(S^ 


V^^ ' 


"^ \^ 






>^ 


^~^_-i\.V 




















-cr~- 


" — ^jy 






" 


IVJ \ 








\ 






>1 


/ 



Line A. 

















i>j — 




Oj 




^ — 


- -^ 




~ 




- Ui 




_ 


00 — 






- ro 














p^"^- 


— 


*^- 


~ 


r.» 




Line A. 



Cape and Circular Rule. 



26 DOOLITTLE'S STRAKllir SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



TllO USERS-RULE. 

T() produce this draft with no side seam, the paper is folded and tlie fold used as line A; from 
and by it square out line 15, and all others going at right angle from the crease as men- 
tioneil line A. Go down from line 15 on line A two inches to line C ; for waistband, 
s(|uare out line C from line A ; go down on line A one-halt to D ; square out line D for fork 
line. I'Voni D go down on line A onedtalf and three inches to knee line E and square a line 
out. From waist line C go the full distance of outside seam measure to line F and square line 
out; then from line A go out on fork line D two-thirds to (i ; from ( ". out one-thirty-second to 
11, then from G come back one-sixth and from it square u\> line 1 to line B. Come back from 
G one-third and square line | to line 15. Go up from line D on line I one-eighth to hip line K ; 
stjuare line K back to line A ; extend line K forward from line 1 one-twenty-fourth to L; from 
line K go down on line I one-twelfth, and from that one-twelfth go forward from line I one- 
twelfth ; then from line D go down from H one-sixteenth to M ; then draw curve line from line 
r> to L to the one-twelfth and to M ; go down from line F one-sixteenth to N. ( io out trom 
line A f)n line F" (for the size of bottoms) half the width of measure taken, adding one-halt 
incli for seams to N ; then draw line G from M to N ; go in from line A on line C one inch, and 
shape line to line K on line A ; draw line up from line C to line 1! trom the one inch in trom line 
A ; tliis torms tin- tbrepart. To torm the back part, first cut out the line only of torepart at the 
one inch in from line 15 to line C, ami as shaped to line A ; cut this single and open out crease 
line A for extension of line R from T ; then extend line J above line B one-sixth ; from the one- 
sixth go out from line | one-eighth to I' ; go out from L to {} one-twelfth and one-thirty-second ; 
extend out from M one-twelfth ; then draw shape line from P to O to one-twelfth out from M. 
Go in trom line O at knee line K. As to measure size: this proportion dralt is tor twenty-four 
waist, torty-tbur hip, twenty knee and sixteen bottom. .Shape line Irom the one-twelfth 
out from M to knee, to N. Draw line R from V to T, and take out a V-shape 
gorge from line R of two ami one-half inches, and from the center of tbre])art on line B take 
out a V-shape gorge of one and one-half inches. To apply waist measure, use lines C and R 
tor waist, extending or suppressing at D and T as the torm re(|uires, as no one set rule will 
conlbrm to the different tbrms. For the straight side and stout form it will require more at 
T, while P remains the same ; t'or the over erect, less at P ; tbr the stooping tbrm there will be 
re([uireil more extension from P, and that amount less at T ; for the tlat tbrm, tront and back, 
more will be adiled at line K, at line A, and h-ss that amount trom P to (} and less at fork M 
tor stride. The reverse tor round torm as prominent from P to O will be straight or tlat at hip 
line K, recpiiring more extension from L to O, as well as that distance added to M lor stride 
and benefit of the distance formed from L to Q, as this tbrm will, as a rule, take from side hip 
the extra tullness, and even cause a sinking in trom a flatness. It is well lor this torm to hollow 
the l)ack part of draft at line A at line K, as this can be better effected by one of seams outside. 
It cm, by the seamless one, by applying all above changes by going in from line A the halt ot 
amount required at outer hip line A, and from that amount establish the rule as above. To 
change this to rule for outside seam draft, make the following changers, as in illustrated Diagram, 
using all ot the above ruling to govern only to line D. In the tbrepart dratting the tlistance Irom 
< i to 1 1 is omitted on line D ; the distance from H to M is not used. From line A on line F go 
in one-sixth and draw line trom the one-sixth to line K ; go in trom this line on line F the dis- 
tance of half the size width of bottom for N ; then draw line O from N to (i. This tbrms fronts. 
Po form th(- back, place the forepart draft on other paper and extentl from it tront and back 
lines K, I), E and F; then come back from tbrepart on line P) one-thirty-second; go forward 
on line P) from G of tbrepart one-twelfth and shape line O of back to knee and to N ; the tork 
curve line from line B to the point of fork line D is seamed up in all cases for women, and the 



DooLii ri.KS sruAicin snoi'i.Di'.K kl'i.i:s, sn'STIcms ami Mi:rii(»i)S 



Line B 




Trousers — Ru i,ic. 



28 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND MI-TIIODS 



opening to be on the side fold or seam. To draft for close fitting from line D to line F, it is 
well to establish line as formed at t)ne-si.\th in from line A by establishing forepart of width of 
bottom as to size and give to the back part one inch more each way from it on the out and in- 
seams ; then from that distance on outside seam line to the one-thirty-second back from K and 
to the top and line O, and from the back inseam width of the one inch from forepart line to 
one-twelfth out from M ; then reduce shape as to measure, curving for shape the outside seams 
mostly and for extra close from line D, down the back parts more than front, having the inseam 
lines as straight in all cases as shape will allow. To take measures: proportion will answer in 
all but inseam, if not too particular. To take all, if required : First, from waist to knee ; second 
and third, to ankle bone or to length tlesired ; fourth, waist ; fifth, hip; sixth, knee; seventh, 
width of bottom. To find the rise of waist from D to C and inseam measure, take the distance 
from the wrist bone joining the hand to the ankle bone or a hill distance required. That distance 
determined will be applied from line V to line G, and the remainder of outside measure from 
line C to line F will make the amount of rise from line D to line C. 



SYSTEM 

OF 

PATTERN CHANGING 



jt, ,.* ,* .* 



30 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



liODY BODICE AND JACKET. 

THE diagram — First — shows tlie jacket pattern, from which set formation all the following 
illustrated diagrams can be changed to those of others in working out problems, as of 
changin^T from one form to another, either tor effect or because of the diftering of one 
form from ant)ther — the first showing how to form the iold-ilown collar and a collar after 
formation. 

The Second shows the' dress botlice front to close to neck, using the same back, side 
and under arm-pieces with it. The same line X is used for button line with a half amount as 
the jacket for button stand, or without to lace or close at seam. If to tlouble over, any amount 
can be added as desired. 

The Second represents the collar to stand, and how to form and when formed. The 
Third represents how to form a collar for a short roll and as formed from a standard collar. 
The adding to the point at W and forming straight to crease line will give more freedom to lapel 
and allow it to stand to place as intended. The same width at step is observed by reducing the 
amount from either edge as to that of increasing at W. The center line S shown in the First 
is the same as in rule given, and will often be of use as guide throughout this work in the system 
of illustrating. 



DOOI 



JTTLirS STRAIGHT SlIOULDKR RULES. SYSTEMS AND METHODS 31 



Line u. 



Jacket S b 

bodice- 

Collars 




\V)\A lillHUF. AM) JaCKI 1. 



32 DOOLITTLES STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULFIS, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



DOUBLE-BKE A8TED J ACKETS. 

THE First and Second are produced from pattern No. i. The only change in the first 
forepart is that the darts are left out and the increase from line X for the double breast, 
and in this the width is governed by style. The wider, the better effect for the box 
appearance. The Second shows two forms — one a doulile-breasted cutaway, the other a peaked 
lapel, used either in a cutaway or a straight front. The back and side pieces are consolidated, 
or can be separated as two pieces (front and back) or three (front, side and back) and used 
with either of the given fronts. In using the separate pieces to consolidate for any separation, 
the amount of seams and shaping left out in the consolidations recjuires to be observed, which 
the ai)plication of measure will determine. The arrow lines in back part show how to form 
either a two or three-piece, or the two can be placed as one, if desired. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDl'.R RULES, SYSTEMS AND MI'.THODS v 



5ox Front 

CufdWd^-Dd 

Cutaway -55 




D( )Ulu,i->Hki:am i;n | .\( k i;i'> 



34 DOOLITTLE'S STRy\IGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



.IA(;KET— THKEE PARTS SEPAKATION. 

T I nS illustration shows the separation into three pieces. The space between the two side 
body parts as consolidated, and the back is the amount of two seams not used by the 
consolidation, as well as the reduction of amount of shape between the two side pieces. 
The whole back can be used if desired. 



DOOLITTLK'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER Rl'l-KS, SYSTEMS AM) M ITHODS 35 



Seam of 
Whole deck 




jACKiiT — Three Pakts Sei'akation. 



36 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOUIT)l'.R RULES. SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



VESTS-TIIKEE FOK3IS-DOUBLE AND SlMiLE-BKEASTED. 

THL First shows the single-breasted no-collar vest, as producetl from pattern No. i. There 
can be any separation other than center line S, as given, as well as an)- darts for shape 
taken out. The ii[jper pocket is for eye-glasses or any other use that may be desired; 
it is for inside, and to go in the facing. The Second gives the single vest to close to neck with 
standing collar, and the sam_e Iront, if with open front with notch collar. The Third gives the 
double-breasted front. If the sleeve is used with either of the above, the scye will be smaller, 
more as the original lines of the scye, as before reducing by clearing out for a no-sleeve vest. 



)()Lirri.K'S STRAKlin SIKU'I.DKR lU-I.l'S, SVSTKMS AND Ml'TlloDS 37 





Vest — Tmkke Forms — Doudle and Single-Breasteo. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAK^HT SMnULDl'.R RULES, S\-.STKMS AND METHODS 



BOX COAT. 

THIS shows the formation in two-piece i^^arments, as front and back; the separation can be 
placed at will. The smaller diagram showing how when separated in two parts, as 
well as the transforming of the short coat to that of any length. Any of the previously 
illustrated straight fronts can be used in this garment. The single-breasted front is very effective 
without the peaked points. The front is always an open question, though the less peaked fronts 
have more of a bo.\ effect. 



DOOLITTLI'.'S Srk.\I(".lir SllnL'LDI'.K Rl'l.I^S, SNSII'MS AXD Ml'/llloDS 




Box Coat. 



40 DOOLITTLK'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



STOUT FORM— BODICE, JACKET AND SKIRT. 

TIII^ illustration tor the stout form is simj)ly the advancement of one-half inch lor every 
size; this being based on three sizes increase. Some forms may require an increase Irom 

lines X antl U at waist line G and a reduction from under arm seam. The dart is gov- 
erned by fullness of bust; this represents the amount of the two as in one. It is well to men- 
tion here that it is well in all shapes to cxttmd out the front at waist, as by so doing can be 
produced a much better effect of bust fullness by drawing Ijack that extension, if required, than 
to work it forward when located back of front side seam. 

The skirt requires a straighter line, 1), going forward from line A at the top oi the skirt, 
and more length in front at bottom. If the stoutness is in front, with llat hips at side, it will 
stand more at side from line A and a less straight line at I), though in most cases when a woman 
is deficient of the prevailing style of form it will be as well to supply it in other ways, that the 
production may have the same. In the corpulent form the diagram as so marked will illustrate 
how to change for it by advancing line A at top and line D only at front. 



DOOI.IITLE'S STRAIGHT SI lOULDl'.R RUI.I':S, SWSTl'.MS AND MKTI K )l )S 41 




Codf or Bodice- 
Skirr -Stout. 
Skirt-Corpulent 




Stout l'"nKM — I'.oiiut;, Jacket and Skiki'. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDKR RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



BACK AND SLEEVE— TO LENGTHEN OK SHORTEN. 

TO shorten back, first mark around pattern to line F, then move down to the distance required 
and from below line F as to pattern shape of whatever the pattern calls for. The short- 
ening of the back is just the opposite. 

The lengthening of sleeve: First mark all around the top and below to elbow, then 
move down the pattern to length required, and form from elbow as lowered to the full length, 
shaping all below as to the pattern. The elbow thus is carried to its proper place as well as 
the bottom and cuff to the size of the original pattern. The shortening of the sleeve is just 
the reverse. The full sleeve head, though not now in use, may be of use in increasing a sleeve 
head for a vest or other garment that may come in use. To produce, take a tape and chalk, 
or, better, a string and pencil, and place pencil at front notch of sleeve, holding string direcdy 
opposite at back arm of sleeve, and sweep back. Then from the elbow and top of back sleeve 
sweep to the above sweep e.xtension, then from that shape to elbow and take oft any size of 
fullness required. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 43 






Back and Sleeve — To Lengthen ok Shorten. 



44 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



WIDE HIP AND DKAPERY-SKIRTS. 

THE wide hi}j requires more in front of line A and more at ijack at M, more taken out for 
shape from I to J and from the center line, also the straightening of line D. All the 
above will give the hip at heavy part more fullness. No skirt can hang well if tight or 
hip-bound. The going out from A at top and back from M is to give more shape at darts and 
at gore separations. The drapery for the skirt is produced by curving line D more and adding 
at bottom of skirt from line A, and in the back from line N, making each A and N longer. 

LofC. 



nooLITTI.K'S STRAIC.IIT SI loL'M )1'-,R Rri.l^S, SYSTEMS AND Ml-.TlloDS 45 




WiDK Hip and DKArKKY — Skirts. 



46 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



ULSTER. 

THIS garment can be produced from the No. i, and can be of two or three pieces. This 
represents a frock back and side body separate, with a sack front. The effect can be 
changed to a sack back and sack front (two pieces). The fronts can be of any of the 
previously illustrated diagrams, also the whole back, if required, or transformed more to a 
Paddock effect; but as to form, the Paddock is nothing more nor less than the old Ulster under 
another name. The collars show that any form can be adapted to this garment. 



DOOLIT 



:tlks straight shouldkr rules, systems and methods m 




TllF. Ul-STKK. 



48 DOOLITTLK'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



RAGLAN. 

Tl IH Raglan Rule is as well, if not best, given with the diagram of changes as better showing 
the simplicity of producing, and only differing from rule draft i in the change from it in 

shoulder and sleeve formation. First establish on line B the half distance from line A to 
front shoulder point \' ; from that point of a half distance ilraw line to the end of back shoulder 
at K, and go in on that line one-twelfth from the point ; shape from C to the one-twelfth and to 
back notch for sleeve. Then draw line from the half distance on line B to the end of front 
shoulder, and go in from point of shoulder one-sixth, and shape from Y to the one-si,\th and to 
line P, and from notch of scye. This forms the back and front shoulders. 

To form sleeve : First establish on line B of sleeve a half from lines A and C ; from 
that halt established go up one-third ; from the one-third go forward one-eighth ; from the one- 
eighth shape the back to top of back sleeve and the front from the one-eighth to the front notch 
of forearm sleeve. 

This garment can be separated into any design required, having in any the effective 
purpose of the Raglan shoulder and sleeve. The lemon-shaped sleeve with seam running 
through the sleeve from top to cuff is the easier to produce the shoulder from, though by so 
doing it loses much of the Raglan effect. 



noOLITTLI-l'S STRAIGirr SIIOL'LDI'.R lU'lJ.S. S\'S1'1-,MS .WD MI'.llIoDS 



40 



y, Line 3 



Half 




Thk Rach^an. 



REMARKS 

AND 

SUGGESTIONS 



.* ,•* ,"* ,* 



ixlOLIFTl.l'.'S STRAIGHT SIIOULDKR RUl.l-.S, SYSIKMS AND Ml'.THODS 53 



REMARKS AM) SICJC; KSTIONS. 

AS (111- W omen's branch ol tailorin^^ has now Ix-conu- an <-stal)lishcil husiiirss in this as well 
as in the old countries. helonuinL;' to that ol iiK-n's tailoring and !))■ them to lie most 

ilesired to superintend, it has made a demantl lor cutters that makes it very essential lor 
any one who intends lollowin^ the ])n)tession ol tailorings to ac(|uaint himself with the latlies' 
branch ol it as well as the men's, not knowing' at what time he ma)' i)e re(|uired to use in j)ractice 
a ladies' rule and system ol work, and in the |)ractice of it he will acc|uire advancement in men's. 
Many merchants at this time are either dirt-ctly or indirectK' doiuL^ the ladies' branch of tailor- 
ing, and olten a cutter can have a good position with the additional knowledge in tlu' lailies' 
branch that he could not without. .Any one learning the branch of the men's system in this 
work will have no difficulty in taking u]j the ladies' branch, as this entire work is based on the 
one |)rinci|)li- throughout, and f)nl\' ditlering as in proportion, location of points, ruling for sei)- 
aration, and all dillerences lor shaping that a woman's garment dillers from that of a man's. 
As these branches have tlvir individual merits, one will naturally want to increase his t^fhciency 
by becoming familiar with both. 

It takes less time to establish a women's business than men's, as the\- will atlvertise 
I)y recommending others to you, and acknowledge, if satisfied, where men will give no thought 
of it. 

The most essential qualitit-s of a cutter in the women's branch of tailoring, next to the 
abilit)' ol being efficient, is tleportment, as without it any amount of skill will not lie tolerated. 
Often, when a cutter has a ijosition to fill in both men's and ladies' dejiartments, and going from 
one to the other, he should be most canlul in his e,\])ressions in the presence of women, as 
many forget, antl use expressions they are accustomed to use when in the presence of men; and 
above all, avoid the slightest familiarity. .\ woman ma)', for the reason of necc;ssity or for the 
reason that she does not know otherwise, submit to un|)leasant deportment, and, if intent is 
wrong, it is best not to lollow in any case, as nothing will ruin a good business as (juickly as one 
or two errors in de[)ortment. 



0« \v)01 



MAR 27 1901 




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